Saturday, November
15, 2014 –Xi’an
After a decent nights sleep, I awoke to hallway chatter an elevator dings, showered, and got ready for a full day of tourism. At 8:00 am, we headed out on foot for breakfast around the corner. It was definitely a local’s restaurant with
about 4 small tables inside and a couple outside - where breakfast was
prepared. We each had a bowl of hot soy
milk with a touch of sugar along with a bowl of soupy noodles covered in a ½”
layer of perhaps tofu? We also each
enjoyed a Chinese long John doughnut (I call it that as it was a non-sugary long
john w/o any topping). I believe Winson
said the total was 9RMB for the both of us (~$1.50 – doesn't seem possible).
Winson then negotiated a 250RMB fee with a taxi driver for the long ride
to and from a tomb outside of the city. It was about an hour drive out to the country
past an innumerable number of 50 story condo complexes under construction. I would guess was passed about 100 of them being built – no kidding! We arrived around 9:15am and paid 70RMB ($12US) each for the tomb grounds admission. There were not too many people there as we began the walk in medium fog and temperatures around 50 degrees. Specifically, the tombs are the Han Lan Ying Tombs. Technically, the Yangling Mausoleum is located at Zhangjiawan Village, near Xi'an city. Here is a link to the location on google maps. It is a joint tomb of Liu Qi, a notable emperor of the Western Han Dynasty, and his empress, Empress Wang. It was built in the year 153 AD (well, over about a 25 year period around that time). I was told that 300,000 workers tolled for about 28 years to build. The tomb area was then guarded for about 300 years after. The overall tomb area actually encompassed an area about 40 square kilometers!
The tour started with a view of the ruins of one of the 4 gate houses that were located on each of 4 sides of the tomb. The tomb itself looked like a giant man-made hill, but is now overgrown with trees and bushes. To the south, we could see a reconstructed gate house complex, but we never had the chance to go over and check it out. We then made our way down the ramp to the underground museum. Apparently, on all four sides of the tomb, there are many parallel corridors underground that were filled with items the emperor could use in the afterlife. The underground tour was really interesting - with glass floors that traversed the underground corridors from above. I did have a problem at the start, as we were required to wear blue booties to protect the glass floor, however, none were large enough for my shoes, so I actually had to have two overlapping booties per foot - which somehow managed to stay on for the duration of the tour.
Photos do not do this justice, it was an amazing tour over these 2000 year old burial pits that contained many stone dolls, vases, chariots, and animals.
Here is a link the the museum's website. They have some good photos and historical information as well.
After the tour over the corridors, we entered a medium sized underground museum with various artifacts available for view up close. Additionally, we went into a side room with a small screen to watch a 30 minute video on the history of this particular emperor. As the curtain raised, the small screen actually turned out to be a miniature set depicting some scene from ancient times. Suddenly, some computer generated 3-d people in ancient wardrobe walked out and interacted with the set - it was fantastic - one of the coolest things I have ever seen. The people were filmed, but somehow animated in 3d fashion. Picture looking at a miniature set in front of you populated with tiny people that appeared to be about 8 " tall or so. It looked absolutely real. Amazing.
Here is a link the the museum's website. They have some good photos and historical information as well.
After the tour over the corridors, we entered a medium sized underground museum with various artifacts available for view up close. Additionally, we went into a side room with a small screen to watch a 30 minute video on the history of this particular emperor. As the curtain raised, the small screen actually turned out to be a miniature set depicting some scene from ancient times. Suddenly, some computer generated 3-d people in ancient wardrobe walked out and interacted with the set - it was fantastic - one of the coolest things I have ever seen. The people were filmed, but somehow animated in 3d fashion. Picture looking at a miniature set in front of you populated with tiny people that appeared to be about 8 " tall or so. It looked absolutely real. Amazing.
We had the taxi driver take us across the street to a large rose garden and Gingko tree forest. It seems the plantings were just a rose and tree farm that the owner realized that they could charge admission. The trees were maybe 20 feet tall and in neat rows and columns and probably was a square mile or so in size. Having easy access to walking in the woods in the US made me realize that folks in a giant Chinese city like Xi'an (8 million people) do not regularly get this opportunity.
Located on these grounds was a large museum that further features artifacts and information from the emperor and the tomb. Many photos later, we were finished.
Google maps location of the museum is here.
Located on these grounds was a large museum that further features artifacts and information from the emperor and the tomb. Many photos later, we were finished.
Google maps location of the museum is here.
Between 11:45am – 12:45pm we rode the taxi back to inside of the walls of Xi'an to the southwest side to a restaurant that Winson said was famous in China for its soup. Organ soup… Intestines with bread. We also had cold noodles and vegetables. For dessert, yogurt in small glass jugs. Total cost was about $10. The intestine soup was actually very good, with the exception of the intestines themselves, which had a solid manure finish taste to them.
From there, we walked to the southern gate and bought some sort of snack that looked like small tree twigs for 5RMB. They tasted like a slightly sour apple, but had some small hard seeds inside that one had to be careful of. Upon reaching the gate house, we paid 54RMB each to enter wall and tour the gate houses. Eventually, we made our way on top of the giant wall and walked along the top for a quarter-mile or so. What a tremendous amount of labor had to have gone into it's construction.
At 3:00pm, we went on one of the mini-taxis for a scary taxi ride to the Shaanxi History Museum that lasted 15 minutes. It is located here on Google maps. Although free, we paid 20RMB to avoid the line for free tickets (and also gave us special exhibition pass – for Tang Dynasty exhibit). I also rented an electronic translator unit for 35RMB - Amazing sights, but VERY crowded.
For my notes:
Quin Dynasty – 2200BC (Terracotta Warriors, Great Wall, Unification of China)
Han Dynasty– 2000BC (Han Lan Ying Tombs from the morning)
Tang Dynasty - 500AD
Ming Dynasty - 1400AD (rebuilt the Xi'an walls to their current form)
Quin Dynasty – 2200BC (Terracotta Warriors, Great Wall, Unification of China)
Han Dynasty– 2000BC (Han Lan Ying Tombs from the morning)
Tang Dynasty - 500AD
Ming Dynasty - 1400AD (rebuilt the Xi'an walls to their current form)
As we exited the museum, I notice the skies actually cleared to nearly blue as we walked through a nice, modern, and clean tourist area. I had a Pepsi and as dusk slowly set in we approached a tall Buddhist temple. From a website reference, "It remains as one of the oldest (built in the 7th century) structures in China, and was originally 60 meters high. Damage in World War II resulted in the reduction of the original ten stories down to seven; however it still remains one of China’s most distinctive and outstanding landmarks. A well preserved ancient building and holy place for Buddhists, Wild Goose Pagoda is said to be the most beautiful building in Xi’an today." (you can see it at night in the background of the fountain show below). Here it is on Google maps. Just to the north is a large fountain area where we later saw a show located here on Google maps.
We stopped in a Starbucks at 6pm to rest (and I entered the day’s activities on my tablet). Eventually, we left and stopped at a KFC where I thought I ordered a chicken sandwich - but it turned out to be a shrimp patty sandwich - pretty tasty - just not what I expected. By 8:30pm, the fountain area (about 100 yards wide and about 500 yards long) had a automated show with lights and music to boot. It was again, a great experience. It was during that show, I reflected on just what an unbelievable day this has been.
Around 9:00pm we walked for about an hour, through the nightclub district, until we finally were able to hail a cab (regular cab this time). After a 30 minute ride, we were back to the market area by the bell and drum towers at the center of Xi'an. There we spent another hour wandering the streets enjoying more snacks and enjoying the cloudless 50 degree evening.


